{"id":827,"date":"2020-02-26T21:08:46","date_gmt":"2020-02-26T20:08:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=827"},"modified":"2020-02-26T22:06:34","modified_gmt":"2020-02-26T21:06:34","slug":"zimne-sustredenie-jbcoc-zamkovskeho-chata","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=827","title":{"rendered":"Zimn\u00e9 s\u00fastredenie – JB&CoC – Zamkovsk\u00e9ho chata"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

V term\u00edne od 20. do 23.02.2020 sa vo Vysok\u00fdch Tatr\u00e1ch na Zamkovsk\u00e9ho chate konalo zimn\u00e9 horolezeck\u00e9 s\u00fastredenie Jaskobus & Colours Of Climbing. S\u00fastredenie bolo zameran\u00e9 predov\u0161etk\u00fdm na metodiku a techniku lezenia \u013eadov. V \u0161tvrtok po pr\u00e1ci sme v zostave Lili, Sima, Nat\u00e1lia, Brogy, Miky a Ja (Pe\u0165o J.) vyrazili smer Tatry. Do Smokovca sme dorazili nie\u010do po deviatej ve\u010der. Nabalili sme v\u0161etko potrebn\u00e9, obuli ly\u017ee a za\u010dali \u0161lapa\u0165 na Zamku. Na chatu sme dorazili takmer presne na desiatu hodinu. E\u0161te n\u00e1m stihli nalia\u0165 nie\u010do na sm\u00e4d. Posedeli sme pri debate a\u017e do polnoci a odobrali sa spa\u0165. Sp\u00e1nku bolo m\u00e1lo, teda minim\u00e1lne pre m\u0148a a Brogyho, nako\u013eko som ho ukecal, \u017ee r\u00e1no, e\u0161te pred ra\u0148ajkami p\u00f4jdeme nie\u010do odisti\u0165 do Malej Studenej doliny. Je 5:00 r\u00e1no. Vst\u00e1vame, obliekame sa berieme materi\u00e1l a o 5:20 vyr\u00e1\u017eame z chaty preisti\u0165 \u013ead v Lomnickom hrebeni<\/a>. Vraciame sa nie\u010do po 8:00, d\u00e1vame ra\u0148ajky s ostatn\u00fdmi, ktor\u00ed na n\u00e1s u\u017e \u010dakaj\u00fa, po ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch a k\u00e1ve vyr\u00e1\u017eame u\u017e pod\u013ea programu do ve\u013ekej Studenej doliny k Veverkovmu \u013eadop\u00e1du.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Popod Veverk\u00e1\u010dom<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Tak ako bola r\u00e1no o piatej jasn\u00e1 obloha bez mr\u00e1\u010dika a bezvetrie, tak sa o p\u00e1r hod\u00edn na to za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa pomaly \u010derti \u017eeni\u0165. My sa v\u0161ak nevzd\u00e1vame a pokra\u010dujeme pod n\u00e1stup. Pred nami je iba jedna dvoja. Nesk\u00f4r zis\u0165ujeme \u017ee s\u00fa to dvaja Polscy wspinacze. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O podmienke sa den\u00e1 ani hovori\u0165. \u013ead je asi tretinov\u00fd a do polovice nedote\u010den\u00fd. \u00dato\u010disko h\u013ead\u00e1me v jeho \u00fatrob\u00e1ch. Ke\u010f je \u013ead dote\u010den\u00fd vytv\u00e1ra sa pod n\u00edm pekn\u00e1 jaskynka, kde sa da ukry\u0165 pred poveternostn\u00fdmi podmienkami. Teraz tu m\u00e1me ledva ako tak\u00e9 z\u00e1vetrie. Ale zas aspo\u0148 nie\u010do. Vyba\u013eujeme matro\u0161, obliekame sed\u00e1ky a hru\u010f\u00e1ky a \u010dak\u00e1me k\u00fdm Poliaci dolez\u00fa. Poliaci v\u0161ak zvolili expedi\u010dn\u00fd sp\u00f4sob lezenia a po ka\u017edom postupovom isten\u00ed sa sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165aj\u00fa dole a menia prvolezca. To u\u017e nevydr\u017e\u00edm a vel\u00edm \u00fatok na vrchol. \ud83d\ude00<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ukryt pred vetrom<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Naliezam prav\u00fdm krajom \u013eadop\u00e1du. \u013dad je tvrd\u00fd a neolezen\u00fd, takmer ka\u017ed\u00fd krok treba pracne vysek\u00e1va\u0165. Netrv\u00e1 mi to kr\u00e1tko ale v\u00fdrazne krat\u0161ie ako expedi\u010dn\u00fdm poliakom. Zo \u017e\u013eabu pri miernej v\u00edchrici za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa pomaly pada\u0165 prachovky, \u010das sa n\u00e1m kr\u00e1ti. Takmer po slepia\u010dky doliezam k \u0161tandu a zla\u0148ujem dole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Zo \u0161tandu Veverkovho \u013eadu<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Nako\u013eko nie je \u010das ani na metodiku ani na \u017eiadne vysvet\u013eovanie, d\u00e1vam kr\u00e1tke in\u0161trukcie k lezeniu na TR a posielam do \u013eadu nov\u00e1\u010dikov. V n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch zimn\u00fdch podmienkach poci\u0165uj\u00fa na vlastnej ko\u017ei o \u010dom je zimn\u00e9 lezenie. V podstate plnohodnotn\u00e1 uk\u00e1\u017eka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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„Ide\u00e1lne“ podmienky vo Veverk\u00e1\u010di<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Po\u010das striedania isti\u010dov a lezcov sa chod\u00edme schov\u00e1va\u0165 popod \u013eadop\u00e1d do z\u00e1vetria. Ale u\u017e f\u00faka tak, \u017ee sa d\u00e1 u\u017e sotva hovori\u0165 o z\u00e1vetr\u00ed, ale ur\u010dite je to lep\u0161ie ako vonku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u010co polo\u017e\u00ed\u0161 do snehu tak m\u00e1\u0161 do min\u00faty probl\u00e9m n\u00e1js\u0165. V\u0161etko zaviate snehom. V\u0161etk\u00fdch n\u00e1s trasie od zimy. Ja sa sna\u017e\u00edm o ako tak\u00e9 metodick\u00e9 inform\u00e1cie a pokyny, ale nem\u00e1 to moc zmysel, ka\u017ed\u00fd rie\u0161i svoj tepeln\u00fd komfort a snahu o ukrytie pred vetrom a snehom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Postupne sa v\u0161etci \u0161iesti vystriedame a ka\u017ed\u00fd ok\u00fasi ak\u00e9 je to liez\u0165 v \u013eade v zimn\u00fdch podmienkach. Vel\u00edm \u00fastup do bezpe\u010dia chaty. Bal\u00edme v\u0161etok matro\u0161, vyhrab\u00e1vame ly\u017ee spopod snehu a pr\u00e1\u0161ime sp\u00e4\u0165 na chatu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po ceste na chatu sa n\u00e1m dar\u00ed aspo\u0148 trochu ohria\u0165 po\u010das v\u00fdstupu. V teple chaty sa prezliekame a dopriavame kr\u00e1tku siestu pred ve\u010derou. Po ve\u010deri n\u00e1s \u010dakala metodick\u00e1 predn\u00e1\u0161ka o materi\u00e1ly potrebnom pri zimnom p\u00f4soben\u00ed v horskom prostred\u00ed. Toto sme absolvovali v k\u013eude na\u0161ej izby. Podaktor\u00ed s frekventantov n\u00e1m aj pozasp\u00e1vali po\u010das predn\u00e1\u0161ky, ale oni si t\u00fa sn\u00e1\u010f dodato\u010dne do\u0161tuduj\u00fa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Baz\u00e1r zimn\u00e9ho materi\u00e1lu<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Po predn\u00e1\u0161ke sme u\u017e len chv\u00ed\u013eu posedeli dole v deckom k\u00fatiku a \u0161li spa\u0165. R\u00e1no n\u00e1s toti\u017e \u010dakal aj ke\u010f pekn\u00fd ale n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd de\u0148. Predov\u0161etk\u00fdm sme museli dohna\u0165 v\u0161etko \u010do sme kv\u00f4li zl\u00e9mu po\u010dasiu nestihli v piatok.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V sobotu r\u00e1no sa zob\u00fadzame do kr\u00e1sneho slne\u010dn\u00e9ho r\u00e1na. Ra\u0148ajkujeme, pijeme k\u00e1vu, bal\u00edme a vyr\u00e1\u017eame smer Ve\u013ek\u00e1 Studen\u00e1 dolina na \u013ead Popolu\u0161ka. <\/p>\n\n\n\n