{"id":1716,"date":"2022-12-09T12:49:25","date_gmt":"2022-12-09T11:49:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=1716"},"modified":"2022-12-09T13:15:03","modified_gmt":"2022-12-09T12:15:03","slug":"dumbier-stara-cesta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=1716","title":{"rendered":"\u010eumbier – Star\u00e1 cesta"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

„Star\u00e1 cesta“ sa nach\u00e1dza v severnej stene \u0160tiavnice (\u010eumbier). Uv\u00e1dzan\u00e1 ob\u0165a\u017enos\u0165 je IV+ UIAA a jej prvov\u00fdstupcovia (J. Koc\u00far, E. Veli\u010d) ju po prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t vyliezli 12.09.1977. Cesta m\u00e1 dva n\u00e1stupov\u00e9 varianty a pod\u013ea zvolen\u00e9ho variantu 10, alebo 11 d\u013a\u017eok. V ceste s\u00fa osaden\u00e9 pevn\u00e9 istiace stanovisk\u00e1, sem tam nejak\u00e1 skoba a nit za \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdm miestom v kom\u00edne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Tituln\u00e1 fotografia horolezeck\u00e9ho sprievodcu \u010eumbiera – k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka „Star\u00e1 cesta“<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka – „Star\u00e1 cesta“<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Star\u00fa cestu som si prv\u00fd raz v\u0161imol na titulnej str\u00e1nke horolezeck\u00e9ho sprievodcu \u010eumbiera a hne\u010f som vedel, \u017ee si ju chcem niekedy preliez\u0165. P\u00f4vodne sme boli na prelezenie dohodnut\u00ed s Igim Marksom, nakoniec to okolnosti zariadili inak. Tip na vylezenie Starej cesty som tie\u017e dostal od n\u00e1\u0161ho priate\u013ea Ruda Hajdu\u010d\u00edka, pre ktor\u00e9ho je \u010eumbier, takpovediac domovskou oblas\u0165ou. Cestu sme liezli 13. febru\u00e1ra 2022 v zlo\u017een\u00ed Katka Bahnov\u00e1 a Ja (Pe\u0165o Ja\u0161ko). Cel\u00e1 akcia za\u010dala v sobotu podve\u010der, kedy som Katku vyzdvihol v Banskej Bystrici a spolo\u010dne sme sa premiestnili na parkovisko pri Trango\u0161ke. Tu sme prespali v aute a r\u00e1no vyrazili na ly\u017eiach na Chatu M.R.\u0160. a po r\u00fdchlom \u010daji a prezle\u010den\u00ed \u010falej k n\u00e1stupu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
v\u00fdstup po zimnom zna\u010dkovan\u00ed od Chaty M.R.\u0160.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
„Prezliekac\u00ed kame\u0148“<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Zostup do Hu\u0165kovho \u017e\u013eabu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Popis n\u00e1stupu som u\u017e nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t podrobne spom\u00ednal v predch\u00e1dzaj\u00facich \u010dl\u00e1nkoch. Star\u00e1 cesta sa nach\u00e1dza len nieko\u013eko desiatok metrov v\u013eavo od cesty „\u0160tepansk\u00fd“, tak\u017ee n\u00e1stup sa taktie\u017e zhoduje. Op\u00e4\u0165 vystupujeme na hrebe\u0148 k prezliekaciemu kame\u0148u, kde na seba nah\u00e1d\u017eeme v\u0161etok potrebn\u00fd materi\u00e1l a zostupujeme k n\u00e1stupu cez Hu\u0165kov \u017e\u013eab.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Poh\u013ead na \u010eumbier zo severu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Spodn\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 Hu\u0165kovho z\u013eabu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V spodnej \u010dasti \u017e\u013eabu sa za\u010dneme \u0165aha\u0165 doprava a sna\u017e\u00edme sa zorientova\u0165 a n\u00e1js\u0165 n\u00e1stup. Po\u010dasie n\u00e1m praje a m\u00e1me dobr\u00fa vidite\u013enos\u0165. N\u00e1stup nach\u00e1dzame na prv\u00fa dobr\u00fa. Vyber\u00e1me si prav\u00fd variant cesty. Prv\u00e9 istiace stanovisko rob\u00edme len z \u010dakanov, navia\u017eeme lan\u00e1 a ideme. Nako\u013eko Katka nebola t\u00fato sez\u00f3nu rozlezen\u00e1, tak v\u0161etky d\u013a\u017eky \u0165ah\u00e1m Ja. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Topo cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Prv\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka prav\u00e9ho variantu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u010cas r\u00fdchlo ubieha a Katka m\u00e1 podve\u010der doma e\u0161te povinnosti, tak z d\u00f4vodu \u0161etrenia \u010dasu prv\u00e9 dve d\u013a\u017eky sp\u00e1jam. Prv\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka je relat\u00edvne \u013eahk\u00e1 a kon\u010d\u00ed fixn\u00fdm istiacim stanoviskom cesty „Stredom platne“. Druh\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka za\u010d\u00edna traverzom a miernym zostupom do v\u00fdrazn\u00e9ho, vysne\u017een\u00e9ho kom\u00edna a n\u00edm priamo hore. V kom\u00edne treba preliez\u0165 dva kolm\u00e9 skaln\u00e9 \u00faseky. Prv\u00fd je \u013eahk\u00fd, ten druh\u00fd je k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e9 miesto celej cesty. V celej ceste s\u00fa minim\u00e1lne mo\u017enosti istenia, preto treba liez\u0165 na istotu. Pod k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fdm miestom je po pravej strane star\u00e1 skoba. Ja som toto miesto liezol z\u013eava. Po prelezen\u00ed skalnej \u010dasti znovu do snehu pote\u0161\u00ed po \u013eavej strane nav\u0155tan\u00fd nit. Tu nasleduje najvtipnej\u0161ia a najzauj\u00edmavej\u0161ia \u010das\u0165 celej d\u013a\u017eky a to prekopanie si tunelu popod obrovsk\u00fd, zaklinen\u00fd balvan do jaskynky, v ktorej sa nach\u00e1dza fixn\u00e9 istiace stanovisko.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Prekopan\u00fd tunel do jaskynky so \u0161tandom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Katka pod prielezom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
dole vstup, hore v\u00fdstup.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po asi 15 min\u00fatach kopania sa dost\u00e1vam do Jaskynky a cel\u00fd dopoten\u00fd dober\u00e1m Katku. Aj ke\u010f liezla na druhom konci lana, bol to pre \u0148u tak isto siln\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitok ako pre m\u0148a. V jaskynke je pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 z\u00e1vetrie, ale nesmieme sa zdr\u017eova\u0165 a treba \u00eds\u0165 \u010falej. Pod\u013ea topa mala \u010fal\u0161ia d\u013a\u017eka za\u010d\u00edna\u0165 hne\u010f „\u0165a\u017e\u0161\u00edm“ lezen\u00edm. Op\u00e4\u0165 ve\u013emi vtipn\u00fd a nezvy\u010dajn\u00fd za\u010diatok d\u013a\u017eky, kedy bolo potrebn\u00e9 preliez\u0165 ponad tunel, ktor\u00fd som si vyhrabal a potom kom\u00ednom cez previs nahor. Najprv to vyzeralo hrozivo, na\u0161\u0165astie to bolo v\u00fdrazne \u013eah\u0161ie ako predch\u00e1dzaj\u00faci \u00fasek. Po v\u00fdleze z jaskyne sa dost\u00e1vam na zasne\u017een\u00e9 tr\u00e1vy a \u017e\u013eabom postupujem nahor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Za\u010diatok 4. d\u013a\u017eky (pod\u013ea topa)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
E\u0161te jedno zap\u00f3zovanie pre fotoapar\u00e1t a ideme.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
piata d\u013a\u017eka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
ta\u017e\u0161ie miesto v piatej d\u013a\u017eke<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch \u0165a\u017ekost\u00ed preliezam piatu d\u013a\u017eku (pod\u013ea topa) na ktorej konci sa nach\u00e1dza po \u013eavej strane fixn\u00e9 istiace stanovisko. Dober\u00e1m Katku a po prehodnoten\u00ed situ\u00e1cie, teda hlavne \u010dasovej tiesne tu op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame cestu a traverzujeme smerom vpravo asi 40m syst\u00e9mom l\u00e1vok a pol\u00edc do tretej d\u013a\u017eky cesty „\u0160tepansk\u00fd“ (fixn\u00e9 istiace stanovisko v platni za IV UIAA – pozri topo cesty). Tu u\u017e v zn\u00e1mom ter\u00e9ne utek\u00e1me hore, aby Katka stihla v\u0161etky povinnosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Posledn\u00fd lezeck\u00fd \u00fasek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Vrcholovka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Zjazd k autu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na vrchol je to s\u00edce e\u0161te kus, ale ter\u00e9n je u\u017e \u013eahk\u00fd. Posledn\u00e9 d\u013a\u017eky u\u017e lezieme s\u00fabe\u017ene. Na hrebeni si sprav\u00edme e\u0161te jedn\u00fa vrcholovku na pamiatku, zbehneme dole na chatu, kde sme si nechali ly\u017ee a pri zapadaj\u00facom slnku a mesiaci nad nami ly\u017eujeme dole k autu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cel\u00e1 t\u00e1to nede\u013en\u00e1 akcia bola par\u00e1dny z\u00e1\u017eitok s kr\u00e1snym lezen\u00edm a par\u00e1dnym po\u010das\u00edm. D\u00fafam, \u017ee si t\u00fato cestu, ale u\u017e aj horn\u00fa \u010das\u0165 preleziem \u010do najsk\u00f4r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
v\u00fdstup po zimnom zna\u010dkovan\u00ed od Chaty M.R.\u0160.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
„Prezliekac\u00ed kame\u0148“<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Zostup do Hu\u0165kovho \u017e\u013eabu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Poh\u013ead na \u010eumbier zo severu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Spodn\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 Hu\u0165kovho z\u013eabu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Prv\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka prav\u00e9ho variantu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Prekopan\u00fd tunel do jaskynky so \u0161tandom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Katkapod prielezom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
dole vstup, hore v\u00fdstup.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Za\u010diatok 4 d\u013a\u017eky (pod\u013ea topa)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
E\u0161te jedno zap\u00f3zovanie pre fotoapar\u00e1t a ideme.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
piata d\u013a\u017eka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
ta\u017e\u0161ie miesto v piatej d\u013a\u017eke<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Posledn\u00fd lezeck\u00fd \u00fasek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Vrcholovka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Zjazd k autu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Topo cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

„Star\u00e1 cesta“ sa nach\u00e1dza v severnej stene \u0160tiavnice (\u010eumbier). Uv\u00e1dzan\u00e1 ob\u0165a\u017enos\u0165 je IV+ UIAA a jej prvov\u00fdstupcovia (J. Koc\u00far, E. Veli\u010d) ju po prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t vyliezli 12.09.1977. Cesta m\u00e1 dva n\u00e1stupov\u00e9 varianty a pod\u013ea zvolen\u00e9ho variantu 10, alebo 11 d\u013a\u017eok. V … Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1720,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"kt_blocks_editor_width":"","_price":"","_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_header":"","_tribe_default_ticket_provider":"","_tribe_ticket_capacity":"0","_ticket_start_date":"","_ticket_end_date":"","_tribe_ticket_show_description":"","_tribe_ticket_show_not_going":false,"_tribe_ticket_use_global_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_global_stock_level":"","_global_stock_mode":"","_global_stock_cap":"","_tribe_rsvp_for_event":"","_tribe_ticket_going_count":"","_tribe_ticket_not_going_count":"","_tribe_tickets_list":[],"_tribe_ticket_has_attendee_info_fields":false,"_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1716"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1781,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716\/revisions\/1781"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1720"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1716"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1716"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1716"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}