{"id":1586,"date":"2022-09-28T16:23:27","date_gmt":"2022-09-28T15:23:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=1586"},"modified":"2022-10-02T14:08:45","modified_gmt":"2022-10-02T13:08:45","slug":"dumbier-banikov-pilier","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=1586","title":{"rendered":"\u010eumbier – Ban\u00edkov pilier"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cesta Ban\u00edkov pilier je jednou z \u010eumbierskych klas\u00edk ob\u0165a\u017enosti IV UIAA. Nach\u00e1dza sa v severnej stene Pagodovej kopy. Prvov\u00fdstupcovia boli P. Dani\u0161 a M. Strelec (07.01.1979). Ob\u0165a\u017enostne je to cesta z pomedzi t\u00fdch \u013eah\u0161\u00edch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e1stup<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e1stup za\u010d\u00edname bu\u010f od parkoviska pri Trango\u0161ke, alebo z Chaty M. R. \u0160tef\u00e1nika. Pri dobr\u00fdch snehov\u00fdch podmienkach sa d\u00e1 n\u00e1stup aj zostup realizova\u0165 na ly\u017eiach. Lezecky cesta taktie\u017e nie je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1, tak\u017ee nerob\u00ed probl\u00e9m ani lezenie v ly\u017eiarkach. U\u0161etr\u00edte tak kopec energie a aj chrb\u00e1t a kr\u00ed\u017ee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00fdstup na hrebe\u0148 od Chaty M.R.\u0160tef\u00e1nika<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Z Chaty M.R. \u0160tef\u00e1nika sa vyd\u00e1me smerom po zimnom zna\u010den\u00ed priamo na hrebe\u0148 k takzvan\u00e9mu prezliekaciemu kame\u0148u.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

GPS: 48.9350936N, 19.6460454E<\/mark><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Prezliekac\u00ed kame\u0148<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Igi pripraven\u00fd na zimn\u00e9 lezeck\u00e9 v\u00fdkony.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Tu je priestor na prezle\u010denie do such\u00e9ho a tepl\u00e9ho oble\u010denia, prebalenie vec\u00ed, odlo\u017eenie ly\u017e\u00ed, nabalenie na seba v\u0161etk\u00e9ho potrebn\u00e9ho na lezenie a m\u00f4\u017eeme zost\u00fapi\u0165 na n\u00e1stup. Pri prechode cez hranu preveja na severn\u00fa stenu treba d\u00e1va\u0165 bacha, aby ste si pod sebou nie\u010do neodtrhli, ale to by mal ka\u017ed\u00fd sk\u00fasenej\u0161\u00ed lezec dobre ovl\u00e1da\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nazna\u010den\u00fd zostup k n\u00e1stupom ciest<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Igi zostupuje do Hu\u0165kovho \u017e\u013eabu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Zlanenie do Hu\u0165kov\u00e9ho \u017e\u013eabu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Hu\u0165kov \u017e\u013eab<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Pod\u013ea aktu\u00e1lnych snehov\u00fdch podmienok zost\u00fapime, bu\u010f na pe\u0161o alebo pr\u00edpadne zlanen\u00edm zo zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165 (tr\u00e1vov\u00e1 skoba + lanovica), ktor\u00e9 treba, ale najprv n\u00e1js\u0165 do Hu\u0165kov\u00e9ho \u017e\u013eabu. Tu u\u017e s\u00fa aj fixn\u00e9 lan\u00e1 aj nitov\u00e9 zla\u0148\u00e1ky. Nimi a\u017e do miest kde sa \u017e\u013eab roz\u0161iruje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Miesto odbo\u010denia na Ban\u00edkov pilier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Miesto odbo\u010denia na Ban\u00edkov pilier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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\u017d\u013eabom nesch\u00e1dzame \u00faplne nadol, ale v miestach v\u00fdraznej tr\u00e1vnatej l\u00e1vky, ktor\u00fa m\u00e1me po \u013eavej strane vystupujeme na pilier. Tu istiace stanovisko – nit. Odtia\u013e po pilieri a\u017e k nasleduj\u00facemu istiacemu stanovisku III. UIAA.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nasleduje „k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka“. Cel\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka je dobre preisten\u00e1 nitmi. Kto si never\u00ed, m\u00f4\u017ee si ju samozrejme doisti\u0165 vlastn\u00fdm postupov\u00fdm isten\u00edm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pe\u0165o v druhej d\u013a\u017eke<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Igor na druhom istiacom stanovisku<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Po k\u013e\u00fa\u010dovom mieste sa pilier v\u00fdrazne roz\u0161iruje. Tu istiace stanovisko. \u010ealej sa dr\u017e\u00edme l\u00ednie piliera a pokra\u010dujeme a\u017e na Ve\u013ek\u00fa kopu. Sem tam je potrebn\u00e9 e\u0161te \u010dosi poprelieza\u0165, ale u\u017e to nie je ni\u010d n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9. St\u00e1le sa sna\u017e\u00edme h\u013eada\u0165 nity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Igi dolieza k tretiemu \u0161tandu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Pe\u0165o v \u0161tvrtej d\u013a\u017eke<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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\u010ealej sa pilier op\u00e4\u0165 zu\u017euje. Tu je u\u017e l\u00ednia jasn\u00e1. Pokra\u010dujeme na Ve\u013ek\u00fa kopu, odtia\u013e \u013eahko cez Ostr\u00e9 sedlo a strm\u00fdm ter\u00e9nom nasp\u00e4\u0165 na vrchol k prezliekaciemu kame\u0148u.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Posledn\u00fd exponovan\u00fd \u00fasek z Ve\u013ekej kopy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Poh\u013ead z Ve\u013ekej kopy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Igi dolieza strm\u00fdm ter\u00e9nom na hrebe\u0148<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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A u\u017e sme op\u00e4\u0165 hore vo vetr\u00edku<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pri prezliekacom kameni u\u017e len pobal\u00edme n\u00e1radie, obujeme ly\u017ee a o chv\u00ed\u013eku sme op\u00e4\u0165 na parkovisku, kde si d\u00e1vame zasl\u00fa\u017een\u00fd odpo\u010dinok pri poh\u00e1ri v\u00edna a dobrom filme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vrcholovka nesmie ch\u00fdba\u0165.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ve\u010dern\u00e9 kino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Sumariz\u00e1cia<\/h2>\n\n\n\n