{"id":144,"date":"2019-11-06T17:36:41","date_gmt":"2019-11-06T16:36:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=144"},"modified":"2019-11-06T17:41:19","modified_gmt":"2019-11-06T16:41:19","slug":"material-pre-fixne-istenia-zaistenych-lezeckych-ciest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=144","title":{"rendered":"Materi\u00e1l pre fixn\u00e9 istenia zaisten\u00fdch lezeck\u00fdch ciest"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Cie\u013eom tohto\n\u010dl\u00e1nku je pribl\u00ed\u017eenie problematiky bezpe\u010dnosti trval\u00fdch postupov\u00fdch isten\u00ed v&nbsp;lezeck\u00fdch\noblastiach, predov\u0161etk\u00fdm istiacich a&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165. \u010cl\u00e1nok\nupozor\u0148uje na nevhodn\u00e9 materi\u00e1ly pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 na v\u00fdrobu istiacich stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165, ich\nmechanick\u00e9 vlastnosti, predov\u0161etk\u00fdm pevnos\u0165 v&nbsp;\u0165ahu a&nbsp;porovn\u00e1va ich\ns&nbsp;materi\u00e1lmi certifikovan\u00fdmi patri\u010dn\u00fdmi normami pre pou\u017eitie pri v\u00fdkone\nhorolezectva. Zameriame sa na pou\u017eitie necertifikovan\u00fdch re\u0165az\u00ed a&nbsp;karab\u00edn\ntypu Q (Quick link, \u201eMailon Rapide\u201c) pri vytv\u00e1ran\u00ed zla\u0148ovac\u00edch a&nbsp;istiacich\nstanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V&nbsp;poslednej\ndek\u00e1de m\u00f4\u017eeme pozorova\u0165 v\u00fdznamn\u00fd n\u00e1rast z\u00e1ujmu o&nbsp;\u0161portov\u00e9 lezenie. Tento\nn\u00e1rast mo\u017eno najv\u00fdraznej\u0161ie vidie\u0165 na umel\u00fdch sten\u00e1ch. Av\u0161ak ve\u013ea s&nbsp;t\u00fdch\nodv\u00e1\u017enej\u0161\u00edch za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00facich lezcov sa pres\u00fava aj do skalk\u00e1rskych lezeck\u00fdch\noblast\u00ed. Samozrejme t\u00fdm mysl\u00edm oblasti preisten\u00e9 trval\u00fdmi postupov\u00fdmi isteniami\n,&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edmi a&nbsp;istiacimi stanovi\u0161tiami. St\u00fapaj\u00facim po\u010dtom lezcov\nlogicky st\u00fapa aj pravdepodobnos\u0165 vzniku \u00farazu. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina lezcov sa plne spolieha\nna fixn\u00e9 postupov\u00e9 istenia, istiace a&nbsp;zla\u0148ovacie stanovisk\u00e1, bez oh\u013ealdu\nna to aby sa zamysleli nad ich bezpe\u010dnos\u0165ou. Preto sme podrobili z\u00e1kladn\u00e9\nspojovac\u00e9 prvky pre v\u00fdrobu istiacich a&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00edsk pevnostn\u00fdm\ntestom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Karab\u00edny Q \u201eMailon Rapide\u201c<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>K&nbsp;prepojeniu trval\u00fdch isten\u00ed ako s\u00fa borh\u00e1ky alebo nity s&nbsp;re\u0165azami pre vytvorenie istiacich a&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165 sa najbe\u017enej\u0161ie pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa ov\u00e1lne oce\u013eov\u00e9 karab\u00edny s&nbsp;6 hrann\u00fdm z\u00e1vitov\u00fdm z\u00e1mkom typovo ozna\u010dovan\u00e9 ako karab\u00edny Q, resp. Mailon Rapide. Pre istiace stanovi\u0161tia je najbe\u017enej\u0161\u00ed priemer t\u00fdchto karab\u00edn 8 mm. V&nbsp;praxi sa v\u0161ak ve\u013emi \u010dasto stret\u00e1vame s&nbsp;probl\u00e9mom pou\u017e\u00edvania necertifikovan\u00fdch karab\u00edn nak\u00fapen\u00fdch v&nbsp;\u017eeleziarstve bez garancie ich pevnosti. Na Obr. 1 je zobrazen\u00e1 certifikovan\u00e1 karab\u00edna a) aj necertifikovan\u00e1 karab\u00edna b). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"360\" height=\"627\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/1-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"148\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=148\" class=\"wp-image-148\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/1-1.jpg 360w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/1-1-172x300.jpg 172w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 360px) 100vw, 360px\" \/><figcaption>a|<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"334\" height=\"630\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/2-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"149\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=149\" class=\"wp-image-149\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/2-2.jpg 334w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/2-2-159x300.jpg 159w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 334px) 100vw, 334px\" \/><figcaption>b|<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 1 Oce\u013eov\u00e1 karab\u00edna typu Q (Mailon Rapide), a) certifikovan\u00e1 pre pou\u017eitie pri horolezectve, b) necertifikovan\u00e1, nak\u00fapen\u00e1 v \u017eeleziarstve<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead\nmedzi nimi nie je \u017eiadny vidite\u013en\u00fd rozmer okrem ozna\u010denia normy a&nbsp;\u00fadajov\no&nbsp;pevnosti na karab\u00edne certifikovanej. Toto je aj jedin\u00fd pozorovate\u013en\u00fd\nrozdiel, pod\u013ea ktor\u00e9ho m\u00f4\u017ee laik rozozna\u0165 certifikovan\u00fd materi\u00e1l ur\u010den\u00fd pre\nhorolezectvo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pre\ncertifikovan\u00fd materi\u00e1l plat\u00ed, \u017ee mus\u00ed by\u0165 ozna\u010den\u00fd aspo\u0148 jedkou\ns&nbsp;pr\u00edslu\u0161n\u00fdch noriem (UIAA, ISO, CE) a&nbsp;mus\u00ed by\u0165 uveden\u00e1 jeho statick\u00e1\npevnos\u0165 v&nbsp;\u0165ahu. Pre karab\u00edny Q je to zv\u00e4\u010d\u0161a 25 kN.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Certifikovan\u00e9\nkarab\u00edny typu Q s\u00fa preva\u017ene vyr\u00e1ban\u00e9 s&nbsp;feritick\u00fdch ocel\u00ed s&nbsp;pr\u00eddavkom\nleguj\u00facich prvkov na zv\u00fd\u0161enie ich pevnosti. Povrch je chr\u00e1nen\u00fd pozinkovan\u00edm \u010di\nu\u017e galvanick\u00fdm alebo \u017eiarov\u00fdm, ktor\u00e9 sl\u00fa\u017ei ako antikor\u00f3zna ochrana proti\natmosf\u00e9rickej kor\u00f3zii. Karab\u00edny m\u00f4\u017eu by\u0165 vyroben\u00e9 aj s&nbsp;nehrdzavej\u00facich\nocel\u00ed. Pre v\u00fdrobu lezeck\u00e9ho materi\u00e1lu s&nbsp;nehrdzavej\u00facej ocele sa preva\u017ene\npou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa austenitick\u00e9 ocele triedy 304, 309 alebo 316L, ktor\u00e9 maj\u00fa dostato\u010dn\u00fa\npevnos\u0165 a&nbsp;v\u00fdborn\u00fa odolnos\u0165 proti kor\u00f3zii, bez potreby nan\u00e1\u0161ania ochrann\u00fdch\npovlakov. V&nbsp;porovnan\u00ed s&nbsp;feritick\u00fdmi oce\u013eami maj\u00fa v\u0161ak ni\u017e\u0161iu pevnos\u0165\nv&nbsp;\u0165ahu a&nbsp;r\u00fdchlej\u0161ie sa opotreb\u00favaj\u00fa v&nbsp;d\u00f4sledku ich ni\u017e\u0161ej\ntvrdosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Pre\nporovnanie pevnosti be\u017en\u00fdch karab\u00edn nak\u00fapen\u00fdch v&nbsp;\u017eeleziarstve a&nbsp;karab\u00edn\ncertifikovan\u00fdch, ur\u010den\u00fdch pre horolezectvo sme podrobili oba typy pevnostnej\nsk\u00fa\u0161ke v&nbsp;\u0165ahu. Dosiahnut\u00e9 v\u00fdsledky jednozna\u010dne preuk\u00e1zali nevhodnos\u0165\nnecertifikovan\u00e9ho materi\u00e1lu pre pou\u017eitie na istiacich stanovi\u0161tiach, aj ke\u010f pri\nzlanen\u00ed by boli pravdepodobne dosta\u010duj\u00face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Mailon 6 mm \u2013 \u017eeleziarstvo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>K&nbsp;plastickej\ndeform\u00e1cii do\u0161lo pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed cca 8 kN, k&nbsp;de\u0161trukcii do\u0161lo v&nbsp;mieste\nz\u00e1vitov\u00e9ho spoja pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed 8,94 kN. Spojovacia matica vysko\u010dila zo z\u00e1vitu\nbez vidite\u013en\u00e9ho po\u0161kodenia. Po vybrat\u00ed karab\u00edny z&nbsp;sk\u00fa\u0161obn\u00e9ho zariadenia\nt\u00e1to nevykazovala \u017eiadne vidite\u013en\u00e9 po\u0161kodenie Obr. 2,\ndokonca sa dala bez n\u00e1mahy op\u00e4\u0165 zaskrutkova\u0165. Je pravda, \u017ee jej pevnos\u0165 zhruba\n900 kg bohato sta\u010d\u00ed na zlanenie z&nbsp;n\u00fadzov\u00e9ho \u0161tandu, alebo nitu pri\nnarazen\u00ed na nepreleziteln\u00fd probl\u00e9m, av\u0161ak je absol\u00fatne neposta\u010duj\u00faca pre\npou\u017eitie na istiace stanovisko, kde mus\u00ed by\u0165 minim\u00e1lna pevnos\u0165 istiaceho\nmateri\u00e1lu 22 kN.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"325\" height=\"647\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/3.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"150\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=150\" class=\"wp-image-150\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/3.jpg 325w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/3-151x300.jpg 151w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 325px) 100vw, 325px\" \/><figcaption>a|<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"388\" height=\"642\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/4.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"151\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=151\" class=\"wp-image-151\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/4.jpg 388w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/4-181x300.jpg 181w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 388px) 100vw, 388px\" \/><figcaption>b|<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 2 Necertifikovan\u00e1 karab\u00edna typu Q, a) pred \u0165ahovou sk\u00fa\u0161kou, b) po \u0165ahovej sk\u00fa\u0161ke<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Mailon CE \u2013 6mm<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Oproti necertifikovan\u00fdm karab\u00ednam nak\u00fapen\u00fdm v&nbsp;\u017eeleziarstve certifikovan\u00e9 karab\u00edny vykazovali v\u00fdrazne zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00fa pevnos\u0165 ako&nbsp;aj odli\u0161n\u00fd mechanizmus de\u0161trukcie. K&nbsp;plastickej deform\u00e1cii do\u0161lo pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed cca 14 kN, k&nbsp;de\u0161trukcii do\u0161lo v&nbsp;mieste z\u00e1vitov\u00e9ho spoja pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed 26,4 kN. Spojovacia matica praskla v&nbsp;axi\u00e1lnom smere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"419\" height=\"754\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/5.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"152\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=152\" class=\"wp-image-152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/5.jpg 419w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/5-167x300.jpg 167w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 419px) 100vw, 419px\" \/><figcaption>a)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"726\" height=\"521\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/6.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"153\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=153\" class=\"wp-image-153\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/6.jpg 726w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/6-300x215.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 726px) 100vw, 726px\" \/><figcaption>b)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 3 Certifikovan\u00e1 karab\u00edna typu Q, a) pred \u0165ahovou sk\u00fa\u0161kou, b) po \u0165ahovej sk\u00fa\u0161ke<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aj\nke\u010f po\u010das zvy\u0161ovania z\u00e1\u0165a\u017ee po\u010das testu doch\u00e1dzalo k&nbsp;v\u00fdraznej plastickej\ndeform\u00e1cii karab\u00edny, k&nbsp;jej poru\u0161eniu do\u0161lo a\u017e za normovanou hranicou 25kN\na&nbsp;to upozor\u0148ujem, \u017ee sa jednalo o&nbsp;karab\u00ednu nieko\u013eko rokov pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fa,\nktor\u00e1 mala za sebou mnoho p\u00e1dov\u00fdch za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Mailon 9mm<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pre porovnanie\nsme sk\u00fa\u0161ali aj necertifikovan\u00e9 karab\u00edny v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch rozmerov. Nad priemer drieku\nkarab\u00edny 8 mm u\u017e nedoch\u00e1dzalo k&nbsp;poru\u0161eniu skrutkovacej poistky ale\nk&nbsp;pretrhnutiu v&nbsp;mieste ukotvenia, ako je zn\u00e1zornen\u00e9 na Obr.\n4.\nK&nbsp;plastickej deform\u00e1cii do\u0161lo pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed cca 16 kN, k&nbsp;de\u0161trukcii\ndo\u0161lo v&nbsp;mieste kontaktu s&nbsp;up\u00ednac\u00edm \u010dapom pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed 43,2 kN.\nSpojovacia matica ostala nepo\u0161koden\u00e1. Po\u010das zvy\u0161ovania za\u0165a\u017eenia doch\u00e1dzalo\nk&nbsp;v\u00fdraznej plastickej deform\u00e1cii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/7.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-154\" width=\"277\" height=\"402\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/7.jpg 463w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/7-206x300.jpg 206w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 277px) 100vw, 277px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><a>Obr. <\/a>4 Necertifikovan\u00e1 karab\u00edna typu Q po\npevnostnej sk\u00fa\u0161ke \u0165ahom<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <\/strong>Pevnos\u0165 t\u00fdchto\nkarab\u00edm prevy\u0161uje minim\u00e1lnu pevnos\u0165 ur\u010dovan\u00fa normov pre pou\u017eitie\nv&nbsp;horolezectve, av\u0161ak nemaj\u00fa ju nijak garantovan\u00fa ani zaru\u010den\u00fa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u010eal\u0161ou\nlogickou s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou fixn\u00fdch \u0161tandov s\u00fa re\u0165aze. Preliezol som u\u017e mnoho lezeck\u00fdch\noblast\u00ed ako po Slovensku tak po svete a&nbsp;m\u00f4\u017eem \u00faprimne poveda\u0165, \u017ee\ns&nbsp;certifikovan\u00fdm materi\u00e1lom na \u0161tandoch sa stret\u00e1vam len naozaj v\u00fdnimo\u010dne.\nPredov\u0161etk\u00fdm \u010do sa t\u00fdka re\u0165az\u00ed. Z&nbsp;tohto d\u00f4vodu sme vybrali dva\nnaj\u010dastej\u0161ie typy oce\u013eov\u00fdch re\u0165az\u00ed pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fdch na v\u00fdrobu fixn\u00fdch istiacich\na&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165. Samozrejme bav\u00edme sa o&nbsp;t\u00fdch\nnecertifikovan\u00fdch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Re\u0165az 6 mm \u2013 \u017eeleziarstvo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>K&nbsp;plastickej deform\u00e1cii do\u0161lo pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed cca 6 kN, k&nbsp;de\u0161trukcii do\u0161lo v&nbsp;mieste kontaktu up\u00ednacieho \u010dapu pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed 17,3 kN. Po\u010das zvy\u0161ovania za\u0165a\u017eedia doch\u00e1dzalo k&nbsp;v\u00fdraznej deform\u00e1cii ohniviek re\u0165aze. Na zla\u0148ovanie, alebo lezenie TR je to dosta\u010duj\u00faca pevnos\u0165. Av\u0161ak ak by sme t\u00fato re\u0165az za\u0165a\u017eili vy\u0161\u0161\u00edm p\u00e1dov\u00fdm faktorom pri p\u00e1de prvolezca, u\u017e by to mohlo ma\u0165 fat\u00e1lne n\u00e1sledky. Pozit\u00edvom tohto pr\u00edpadu je aspo\u0148 fakt, \u017ee re\u0165az sa neroztrhla v&nbsp;zvare ale v&nbsp;jej priereze mimo zvaru, \u010do dokazuje dobr\u00fa kvalitu zvarov ohniviek Obr. 5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"411\" height=\"730\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/8.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"155\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=155\" class=\"wp-image-155\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/8.jpg 411w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/8-169x300.jpg 169w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 411px) 100vw, 411px\" \/><figcaption>a)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"448\" height=\"716\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/9.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"156\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=156\" class=\"wp-image-156\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/9.jpg 448w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/9-188x300.jpg 188w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 448px) 100vw, 448px\" \/><figcaption>b)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 5 Necertifikovan\u00e1 re\u0165az priemeru 6 mm, a) pred sk\u00fa\u0161kou, b) po sk\u00fa\u0161ke<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V&nbsp;na\u0161ich\nlezeck\u00fdch oblastiach sa naj\u010dastej\u0161ie stret\u00e1vame s&nbsp;necertifikovan\u00fdmi\nre\u0165azami priemeru 8 mm. S\u00fa vyroben\u00e9 s&nbsp;feritick\u00fdch ocel\u00ed galvanicky alebo\n\u017eiarovo pozinkovan\u00e9 av\u0161ak bez leguj\u00facich prvkov a&nbsp;bez garantovanej\npevnostnej \u00fanosnosti. Ak by sme nazreli do noriem pre zv\u00e1ran\u00e9 re\u0165aze, zistili\nby sme, \u017ee aj tam sa uv\u00e1dza, \u017ee nie s\u00fa vhodn\u00e9 pre zdv\u00edhanie bremien. Ich maxim\u00e1lna\npevnos\u0165 sa uv\u00e1dza okolo 20 kN.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Re\u0165az 8 mm \u2013\n\u017eeleziarstvo (odporovo zv\u00e1ran\u00e1)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>K&nbsp;plastickej deform\u00e1cii do\u0161lo pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed cca 14 kN, k&nbsp;de\u0161trukcii do\u0161lo v&nbsp;mieste zvaru ohnivka pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed 23,9 kN. Miesto lomu sa nach\u00e1dzalo v&nbsp;tepelne ovplyvnenej oblasti (TOO), k&nbsp;naru\u0161eniu do\u0161lo pravdepodobne v&nbsp;d\u00f4sledku zn\u00ed\u017eenej pevnosti v&nbsp;TOO. Pri druhom pokuse v&nbsp;inom mieste do\u0161lo tak isto k&nbsp;naru\u0161eniu v&nbsp;mieste zvarov\u00e9ho spoja a&nbsp;to k&nbsp;plastickej deform\u00e1cii pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed cca. 13 kN a&nbsp;k&nbsp;de\u0161trukcii pri za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed 19,1 kN Obr. 6.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"670\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/10.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"157\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=157\" class=\"wp-image-157\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/10.jpg 670w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/10-300x291.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 670px) 100vw, 670px\" \/><figcaption>a)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/11.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"158\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=158\" class=\"wp-image-158\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/11.jpg 640w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/11-295x300.jpg 295w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption>b)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 6 Necertifikovan\u00e1 re\u0165az 8 mm, a) po sk\u00fa\u0161ke \u0165ahom, b) in\u00e9 miesto po sk\u00fa\u0161ke \u0165ahom<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Z&nbsp;v\u00fdsledkov\nm\u00f4\u017eeme usudzova\u0165, \u017ee pri tomto type re\u0165aze je s\u00edce pevnos\u0165 materi\u00e1lu\nposta\u010duj\u00faca, av\u0161ak v&nbsp;tomto pr\u00edpade do\u0161lo pri v\u00fdrobe k&nbsp;chybe pri\nzv\u00e1ran\u00ed, nako\u013eko pri obydvoch sk\u00fa\u0161kach do\u0161lo k&nbsp;poru\u0161eniu v&nbsp;mieste\nzvaru, \u010do je z&nbsp;h\u013eadiska posudzovania pevnosti zv\u00e1ran\u00fdch spojov\nnevyhovuj\u00face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Na\nz\u00e1ver m\u00f4\u017eeme z&nbsp;hore uveden\u00fdch faktov kon\u0161tatova\u0165, \u017ee fixn\u00e9 zla\u0148ovacie\na&nbsp;istiace stanovi\u0161tia vyroben\u00e9 z&nbsp;necertifikovan\u00fdch komponentov s\u00edce\nvyzeraj\u00fa pevne, ale ich pevnos\u0165 nezodpoved\u00e1 patri\u010dn\u00fdm norm\u00e1m \u010di u\u017e UIAA, EN\nalebo CE. Ich pevnos\u0165 s\u00edce posta\u010duje na zla\u0148ovanie a&nbsp;istenie TR av\u0161ak je\nto skryt\u00e1 hrozba, ktora len \u010dak\u00e1 na pr\u00edle\u017eitos\u0165 kedy zasiahne n\u00e1hoda\na&nbsp;stane sa nejak\u00fd v\u00e1\u017eny \u00faraz. D\u00fafam, \u017ee tento \u010dl\u00e1nok bude ma\u0165 za n\u00e1sledok\nzamyslenie sa predov\u0161etk\u00fdm t\u00fdch ktor\u00ed svoju energiu a&nbsp;vo\u013en\u00fd \u010das investuj\u00fa\ndo preis\u0165ovania skaln\u00fdch oblasti a&nbsp;aj be\u017en\u00fdch lezcov ktor\u00ed bud\u00fa s\u00edce\nd\u00f4verova\u0165 ale aj viac preverova\u0165. Predsa len sa jedn\u00e1 o&nbsp;na\u0161e zdravie\na&nbsp;\u017eivot.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Cie\u013eom tohto \u010dl\u00e1nku je pribl\u00ed\u017eenie problematiky bezpe\u010dnosti trval\u00fdch postupov\u00fdch isten\u00ed v&nbsp;lezeck\u00fdch oblastiach, predov\u0161etk\u00fdm istiacich a&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165. \u010cl\u00e1nok upozor\u0148uje na nevhodn\u00e9 materi\u00e1ly pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 na v\u00fdrobu istiacich stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165, ich mechanick\u00e9 vlastnosti, predov\u0161etk\u00fdm pevnos\u0165 v&nbsp;\u0165ahu a&nbsp;porovn\u00e1va ich s&nbsp;materi\u00e1lmi certifikovan\u00fdmi patri\u010dn\u00fdmi normami pre pou\u017eitie &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=144\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":161,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"kt_blocks_editor_width":"","_price":"","_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_header":"","_tribe_default_ticket_provider":"","_tribe_ticket_capacity":"0","_ticket_start_date":"","_ticket_end_date":"","_tribe_ticket_show_description":"","_tribe_ticket_show_not_going":false,"_tribe_ticket_use_global_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_global_stock_level":"","_global_stock_mode":"","_global_stock_cap":"","_tribe_rsvp_for_event":"","_tribe_ticket_going_count":"","_tribe_ticket_not_going_count":"","_tribe_tickets_list":[],"_tribe_ticket_has_attendee_info_fields":false,"_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/144"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=144"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/144\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":160,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/144\/revisions\/160"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/161"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=144"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=144"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=144"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}