{"id":124,"date":"2019-11-06T12:50:07","date_gmt":"2019-11-06T11:50:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=124"},"modified":"2019-11-06T12:52:57","modified_gmt":"2019-11-06T11:52:57","slug":"problematika-pevnych-isteni-lezeckych-ciest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=124","title":{"rendered":"Problematika pevn\u00fdch isten\u00ed lezeck\u00fdch ciest"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong><em>Predslov<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V pr\u00edslov\u00ed\n\u201eD\u00f4veruj, ale preveruj\u201c je ve\u013ek\u00fd kus pravdy a&nbsp;mali by sme sa n\u00edm riadi\u0165\nv\u0161etci a&nbsp;pri ka\u017edej pr\u00edle\u017eitosti. Plat\u00ed to aj pri pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00ed fixn\u00fdch isten\u00ed\nv&nbsp;lezeck\u00fdch oblastiach. V\u0161\u00edmam si predov\u0161etk\u00fdm pri za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00facich lezcoch \u010di\nu\u017e v&nbsp;skalk\u00e1rskych oblastiach alebo v&nbsp;hor\u00e1ch ako dok\u00e1\u017eu slepo\nd\u00f4verova\u0165 fixn\u00fdm postupov\u00fdm isteniam a&nbsp;bez ak\u00e9hoko\u013evek zav\u00e1hania odsadn\u00fa\ndo star\u00e9ho hrdzav\u00e9ho nitu alebo do tri\u0161tvrte vydrat\u00e9ho barana. \u201eVe\u010f ke\u010f to tu\nje tak to predsa mus\u00ed by\u0165 bezpe\u010dn\u00e9\u201c. V&nbsp;nasleduj\u00facom \u010dl\u00e1nku sk\u00fasim pribl\u00ed\u017ei\u0165\nnieko\u013eko mojich postrehov nazbieran\u00fdch po\u010das mojej horolezeckej praxe o\u010dami\nmateri\u00e1lov\u00e9ho technol\u00f3ga a&nbsp;in\u017einiera zv\u00e1rania.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>\u00davod<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tento \u010dl\u00e1nok\nnadv\u00e4zuje na predch\u00e1dzaj\u00faci metodick\u00fd \u010dl\u00e1nok publikovan\u00fd v&nbsp;\u010d\u00edsle 1\/2019 v&nbsp;ktorom\nsom podrobnej\u0161ie rozviedol problematiku pou\u017e\u00edvania necertifikovan\u00fdch materi\u00e1lov\npre fixn\u00e9 zais\u0165ovanie lezeck\u00fdch ciest. V&nbsp;tejto \u010dasti by som sa r\u00e1d zameral\nna typy materi\u00e1lov pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 na budovanie fixn\u00fdch postupov\u00fdch isten\u00ed\na&nbsp;istiacich stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165, stru\u010dne pop\u00edsal ich vybran\u00e9 mechanick\u00e9 vlastnosti\ns&nbsp;cie\u013eom pouk\u00e1za\u0165 na kritick\u00e9 miesta pri ich pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vo\nv\u0161eobecnosti m\u00f4\u017eeme materi\u00e1ly pre vytv\u00e1ranie postupov\u00fdch isten\u00ed\na&nbsp;istiacich stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165 z&nbsp;h\u013eadiska certifik\u00e1cie rozdeli\u0165 do dvoch\nz\u00e1kladn\u00fdch skup\u00edn a&nbsp;to na materi\u00e1ly certifikovan\u00e9 a&nbsp;necertifikovan\u00e9\na&nbsp;z&nbsp;h\u013eadiska typu pou\u017eit\u00e9ho materi\u00e1lu do troch skup\u00edn a&nbsp;to ocel\u00ed\nferitick\u00fdch (hrdzavej\u00face), austenitick\u00fdch (nehrdzavej\u00face) a&nbsp;hlin\u00edkov\u00fdch\nzliatin. Textiln\u00e9 materi\u00e1ly v&nbsp;tomto \u010dl\u00e1nku spom\u00edna\u0165 nebudem, T\u00fdm sa budem\nvenova\u0165 v&nbsp;samostatnom pr\u00edspevku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Certifikovan\u00e9 materi\u00e1ly<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Certifik\u00e1cia\nak\u00e9hoko\u013evek v\u00fdrobku, technologick\u00e9ho postupu alebo osoby \u010di org\u00e1nu n\u00e1m d\u00e1va ako\ntak\u00fa istotu o&nbsp;jeho vybran\u00fdch vlastnostiach. Pri horolezeckom vybaven\u00ed je\nto predov\u0161etk\u00fdm garantovan\u00e1 minim\u00e1lna pevnos\u0165. Av\u0161ak treba si uvedomi\u0165, \u017ee\ntieto hodnoty s\u00fa garantovan\u00e9 bezprostredne po certifik\u00e1cii \u010di v\u00fdrobe. Nikto v\u00e1m\nu\u017e nezaru\u010d\u00ed zmenu vlastnost\u00ed vplyvom opotrebenia \u010di sp\u00f4sobu pou\u017e\u00edvania.\nCertifikovan\u00e9 vybavenie pre horolezeck\u00e9 \u0161porty spozn\u00e1me jednoducho. Ka\u017ed\u00fd\ncertifikovan\u00fd v\u00fdrobok mus\u00ed by\u0165 vidite\u013ene ozna\u010den\u00fd prisl\u00fachaj\u00facou normou ako aj\nzna\u010dkou v\u00fdrobcu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pri tvorbe fixn\u00fdch istiacich bodov sa v\u0161eobecne m\u00f4\u017eeme u&nbsp;n\u00e1s stretn\u00fa\u0165 bu\u010f s&nbsp;lepen\u00fdmi borh\u00e1kmi Obr. 1 b),c) alebo expanzn\u00fdmi nitmi s&nbsp;plan\u017eetami Obr. 1 a). Pri istiacich stanovisk\u00e1ch k&nbsp;tomu samozrejme pribudn\u00fa spojovacie re\u0165aze a&nbsp;r\u00f4zne karab\u00edny \u010di zla\u0148ovacie body, ktor\u00e9 v\u0161ak musia tie\u017e sp\u013a\u0148a\u0165 aspekty certifik\u00e1cie. Pr\u00e1ve pri t\u00fdchto doplnkov\u00fdch materi\u00e1loch to u&nbsp;n\u00e1s takmer vo v\u0161etk\u00fdch lezeck\u00fdch oblastiach neplat\u00ed a&nbsp;okrem certifikovan\u00fdch borh\u00e1kov \u010di expanzn\u00fdch nitov je v\u0161etok ostatn\u00fd pou\u017eit\u00fd materi\u00e1l necertifikovan\u00fd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Plate-Kit-10-4K15110.png\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"128\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=128\" class=\"wp-image-128\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Plate-Kit-10-4K15110.png 1024w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Plate-Kit-10-4K15110-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Plate-Kit-10-4K15110-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Plate-Kit-10-4K15110-768x768.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>A)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Glue-In-Anchor-4A160-back-1.png\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"129\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=129\" class=\"wp-image-129\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Glue-In-Anchor-4A160-back-1.png 1024w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Glue-In-Anchor-4A160-back-1-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Glue-In-Anchor-4A160-back-1-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Glue-In-Anchor-4A160-back-1-768x768.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>B)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/014a_2-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"130\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=130\" class=\"wp-image-130\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/014a_2-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/014a_2-1-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/014a_2-1-300x300.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption>C)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 1Certifikovan\u00e9 fixn\u00e9 istenia, a)expanzn\u00fd nit s&nbsp;plan\u017eetou, b)oh\u00fdban\u00fd borh\u00e1k, c) zv\u00e1ran\u00fd borh\u00e1k<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Z&nbsp;h\u013eadiska typu\npou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fdch materi\u00e1lov sa na certifikovan\u00e9 istiace komponenty pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa\nmateri\u00e1ly uveden\u00e9 v <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Tab. 1Materi\u00e1ly pre v\u00fdrobu certifikovan\u00fdch isten\u00ed<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<table class=\"wp-block-table alignwide is-style-stripes\"><tbody><tr><td>\n  <strong>Typ materi\u00e1lu<\/strong>\n  <\/td><td>\n  <strong>Ozna\u010denie materi\u00e1lu<\/strong>\n  <\/td><td>\n  <strong>Zmluvn\u00e1 medza klzu R<sub>P0,2<\/sub>\n  <\/strong>\n  <\/td><td>\n  <strong>Pred\u013a\u017eenie A<sub>5<\/sub><\/strong>\n  <\/td><\/tr><tr><td>\n  Ocele feritick\u00e9 \u201e\u010dierne\u201c\n  <\/td><td>\n  C45 (1.0503, 12050)\n  <\/td><td>\n  min. 490 MPa\n  <\/td><td>\n  min. 14%\n  <\/td><\/tr><tr><td>\n  Ocele austenitick\u00e9 &#8211;\n  nehrdzavej\u00face\n  <\/td><td>\n  A2 (304)\n  <\/td><td>\n  min. 205 MPa\n  <\/td><td>\n  min. 40%\n  <\/td><\/tr><tr><td>\n  &nbsp;\n  <\/td><td>\n  A4 (316)\n  <\/td><td>\n  min. 205 MPa\n  <\/td><td>\n  min 40%\n  <\/td><\/tr><tr><td>\n  Zliatiny hlin\u00edka\n  <\/td><td>\n  Trieda 7075T6 na b\u00e1ze AlCu, Zn,\n  Mg, Cr\n  <\/td><td>\n  503 MPa\n  <\/td><td>\n  11%\n  <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Necertifikovan\u00fd\nmateri\u00e1l<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Identifik\u00e1cia necertifikovan\u00e9ho materi\u00e1lu je v&nbsp;celku jednoduch\u00e1. Na materi\u00e1li absentuje ak\u00e9ko\u013evek ozna\u010denie a&nbsp;pov\u00e4\u010d\u0161ine je hne\u010f na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead vidie\u0165, \u017ee sa jedn\u00e1 o&nbsp;remeseln\u00fa v\u00fdrobu miestnych kutilov. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou sa s&nbsp;tak\u00fdmito k\u00faskami stret\u00e1vame v&nbsp;star\u0161\u00edch oblastiach, alebo menej frekventovan\u00fdch skalk\u00e1ch lok\u00e1lneho v\u00fdznamu. Z Obr. 2 nevie ani odborn\u00e9 oko us\u00fadi\u0165 ak\u00e9 mechanick\u00e9 vlastnosti, v&nbsp;na\u0161om pr\u00edpade pevnos\u0165 m\u00f4\u017eeme od dan\u00fdch isten\u00ed o\u010dak\u00e1va\u0165. Upozor\u0148ujem, \u017ee pri dom\u00e1cej v\u00fdrobe istiacich prvkov nie ka\u017ed\u00fd uva\u017euje aj o&nbsp;spr\u00e1vnej vo\u013ebe akosti pou\u017eit\u00e9ho materi\u00e1lu. Najbe\u017enej\u0161ie dostupn\u00fdm materi\u00e1lom je be\u017en\u00e1 kon\u0161truk\u010dn\u00e1 oce\u013e triedy S235\/1.0036\/11 323, ktor\u00e1 je absol\u00fatne nevhodn\u00e1 na pevnostn\u00e9 aplik\u00e1cie nako\u013eko jej mechanick\u00e9 vlastnosti nezodpovedaj\u00fa po\u017eiadavk\u00e1m istiacich prvkov.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190113120237562_COVER-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"131\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=131\" class=\"wp-image-131\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190113120237562_COVER-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190113120237562_COVER-300x300-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption><em>a)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/img_4977-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"132\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=132\" class=\"wp-image-132\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/img_4977-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/img_4977-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption><em>b)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 2 Pr\u00edklady necertifikovan\u00fdch fixn\u00fdch isten\u00ed<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Rozdelenie\nmateri\u00e1lov pod\u013ea typu<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ak\u00fdko\u013evek kovov\u00fd lezeck\u00fd\nmateri\u00e1l sa v&nbsp;podstate vyr\u00e1ba len s&nbsp;hore uveden\u00fdch typov materi\u00e1lov Tab.\n1. Najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu pevnos\u0165 dosahuj\u00fa prvky vyroben\u00e9 z&nbsp;feritick\u00fdch\n(hrdzavej\u00facich) ocel\u00ed triedy C45. Ako prevencia proti atmosf\u00e9rickej kor\u00f3zii sa\naplikuje gavanick\u00e9 alebo \u017eiarov\u00e9 zinkovanie, popr\u00edpade niklovanie alebo ich\nkombin\u00e1cia. Tieto komponenty v\u0161ak \u010dasom a&nbsp;pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00edm, predov\u0161etk\u00fdm\nmechanick\u00fdm po\u0161koden\u00edm a&nbsp;naru\u0161en\u00edm antikor\u00f3znej vrstvy povlakov za\u010dn\u00fa\nkorodova\u0165 a \u201epriazniv\u00fdch\u201c podmienkach pre vznik kor\u00f3zneho prostredia je ich\n\u017eivotnos\u0165 v\u00fdrazne ni\u017e\u0161ia ako u&nbsp;nehrdzavej\u00facich ocel\u00ed \u010di hlin\u00edkov\u00fdch\nzliatin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Najroz\u0161\u00edrenej\u0161\u00edm materi\u00e1lom\npre v\u00fdrobu fixn\u00fdch isten\u00ed je v&nbsp;s\u00fa\u010dasnosti antikor\u00f3zna oce\u013e triedy A2\/304\na&nbsp;po novom triedy A4\/316 (vy\u0161\u0161ia kor\u00f3zna odolnos\u0165). Pri t\u00fdchto oceliach,\nv\u010faka svojej \u0161trukt\u00fare a&nbsp;obsahu chr\u00f3mu nad 16% prirodzene vznik\u00e1 na\npovrchu pasiva\u010dn\u00e1 vrstva oxidov chr\u00f3mu, ktor\u00e1 m\u00e1 v\u00fdborn\u00e9 antikor\u00f3zne\nvlastnosti. Nev\u00fdhodou je v\u0161ak jej ni\u017e\u0161ia pevnos\u0165, av\u0161ak v\u010faka jej vysokej\nh\u00fa\u017eevnatosti v\u00fdborne odol\u00e1va r\u00e1zov\u00e9mu za\u0165a\u017eeniu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Do tretice s\u00fa to komponenty,\npreva\u017ene karab\u00edny s&nbsp;hlin\u00edkov\u00fdch zliatin triedy 7075-T6 (T6 \u2013 tepeln\u00e9\nspracovanie na zv\u00fd\u0161enie pevnosti). Tieto zliatiny maj\u00fa po vytvrden\u00ed vysok\u00fa\npevnos\u0165, no iba ve\u013emi mal\u00e9 pred\u013a\u017eenie a&nbsp;pri r\u00e1zovom za\u0165a\u017een\u00ed doch\u00e1dza\nk&nbsp;lomu v\u00fdrazne sk\u00f4r ako u vy\u0161\u0161ie spom\u00ednan\u00fdch materi\u00e1lov. Pomern\u00e9\npred\u013a\u017eenie alebo tie\u017e elong\u00e1cia je bezrozmern\u00e1 fyzik\u00e1lna veli\u010dina ud\u00e1vaj\u00faca pomer\nmedzi p\u00f4vodnou d\u013a\u017ekou sk\u00fa\u0161obnej vzorky a&nbsp;d\u013a\u017ekou pri ktorej sa\nv&nbsp;d\u00f4sledku \u0165ahov\u00e9ho za\u0165a\u017eenia vzorka roztrhla. \u010c\u00edm je t\u00e1to hodnota vy\u0161\u0161ia,\nt\u00fdm je dan\u00fd materi\u00e1l schopn\u00fd spotrebova\u0165 viac energie na plastick\u00fa deform\u00e1ciu.\nLaicky je potom mo\u017en\u00e9 poveda\u0165, \u017ee tak\u00fdto materi\u00e1l vie odola\u0165 vy\u0161\u0161iemu r\u00e1zov\u00e9mu\nza\u0165a\u017eeniu. Pre to je vhodn\u00e9 tak\u00e9to komponenty kombinova\u0165 spolu\ns&nbsp;textiln\u00fdmi materi\u00e1lmi, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa schopn\u00e9 pohlcova\u0165 vzniknut\u00fa r\u00e1zov\u00fa\nenergiu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nerezov\u00e9 a \u201ehlin\u00edkov\u00e9\u201c\nmateri\u00e1ly maj\u00fa v\u00fdrazne ni\u017e\u0161iu oteruvzdornos\u0165 ako ocele triedy C45, preto pri\nich pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00ed doch\u00e1dza k&nbsp;r\u00fdchlej\u0161iemu opotrebeniu predov\u0161etk\u00fdm istiacich\na&nbsp;zla\u0148ovac\u00edch bodov (zla\u0148ovacie barany).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Kor\u00f3zia nehrdzavej\u00facich ocel\u00ed<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V&nbsp;ur\u010dit\u00fdch \u0161pecifick\u00fdch podmienkach pre\nvznik kor\u00f3zneho prostredia m\u00f4\u017ee doch\u00e1dza\u0165 a&nbsp;mus\u00edm zd\u00f4razni\u0165, \u017ee aj\ndoch\u00e1dza k&nbsp;kor\u00f3znemu napadnutiu nehrdzavej\u00facich ocel\u00ed. Stret\u00e1vame sa tu\ns&nbsp;dvoma mechanizmami kor\u00f3zie a&nbsp;to s&nbsp;tzv. \u0161trbinovou kor\u00f3ziou\na&nbsp;medzikry\u0161t\u00e1lovou kor\u00f3ziou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>\u0160trbinov\u00e1 kor\u00f3zia<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u0160trbinov\u00e1 kor\u00f3zia prebieha v&nbsp;jemn\u00fdch kapil\u00e1rach, alebo v&nbsp;miestach so zl\u00fdm obehom prostredia. M\u00e1 pomerne dlh\u00fa inkuba\u010dn\u00fa dobu. Proces kor\u00f3zie m\u00f4\u017ee prebieha\u0165 dvomi mechanizmami a&nbsp;to bu\u010f vznikom koncentra\u010dn\u00fdch \u010dl\u00e1nkov Obr. 3, a), kde r\u00f4zna koncentr\u00e1cia i\u00f3nov v&nbsp;elektrolyte \u0161trbiny a&nbsp;na jej \u00fasti vytv\u00e1ra koncentra\u010dn\u00e9 \u010dl\u00e1nky s&nbsp;an\u00f3dovou oblas\u0165ou rozp\u00fa\u0161\u0165ania na okraji \u0161trbiny, alebo rozdielnym obsahom O<sub>2<\/sub> na povrchu a&nbsp;v&nbsp;\u0161trbine Obr. 3, b), kde sa na rozdiel od prv\u00e9ho pr\u00edpadu nach\u00e1dza an\u00f3dov\u00e1 oblas\u0165 rozp\u00fa\u0161\u0165ania vo vn\u00fatri \u0161trbiny a&nbsp;vonkaj\u0161ia \u010das\u0165 s&nbsp;dostato\u010dn\u00fdm pr\u00edsunom kysl\u00edku tvor\u00ed kat\u00f3du. Kor\u00f3zne napadnutie sa vizu\u00e1lne prejav\u00ed a\u017e po ve\u013emi dlhej dobe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"661\" height=\"284\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k1.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"133\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=133\" class=\"wp-image-133\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k1.jpg 661w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k1-300x129.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 661px) 100vw, 661px\" \/><figcaption>a)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"639\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k2.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"134\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=134\" class=\"wp-image-134\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k2.jpg 639w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k2-300x132.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 639px) 100vw, 639px\" \/><figcaption>b)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\">Obr. 3 Mechanizmy vzniku \u0161trbinovej kor\u00f3zie, a) vznik koncentra\u010dn\u00fdch \u010dl\u00e1nkov, b) rozdielny obsah O<sub>2<\/sub><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pr\u00edpad uveden\u00fd na Obr. 3 b) je v&nbsp;na\u0161om pr\u00edpade nebezpe\u010dnej\u0161\u00ed,\nnako\u013eko anodick\u00e9 kor\u00f3zne procesy prebiehaj\u00fa vo vn\u00fatri \u0161trbiny a&nbsp;nie je ich\nna vonok vidie\u0165.Pr\u00edklad kor\u00f3zneho napadnutia fixn\u00e9ho istenia je zn\u00e1zornen\u00fd na Obr. 4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/thai-bad-bolts-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-125\" width=\"269\" height=\"358\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/thai-bad-bolts-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/thai-bad-bolts-1-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 269px) 100vw, 269px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 4 Pr\u00edklad kor\u00f3zneho napadnutia borh\u00e1ku<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Medzikry\u0161t\u00e1lov\u00e1\nkor\u00f3zia<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Medzikr\u00fd\u0161t\u00e1lov\u00e1 kor\u00f3zia prebieha po hraniciach z\u0155n Obr. 5, a) preva\u017ene vplyvom tepeln\u00e9ho zcitlivenia materi\u00e1lu (zv\u00e1ranie, ohrev) Obr. 5, b). Ohrozuje najm\u00e4 nehrdzavej\u00face ocele, Ni a&nbsp;Al zliatiny. Prenik\u00e1 do zna\u010dnej h\u013abky pod povrch. Materi\u00e1l postupne str\u00e1ca pevnos\u0165 a&nbsp;h\u00fa\u017eevnatos\u0165.Vznik medzikry\u0161t\u00e1lovej kor\u00f3zie je podmiene\u00fd lok\u00e1lnou stratou pasivity povrchovej vrstvy. Pri nehrdzavej\u00facich oceliach je pr\u00ed\u010dinou ochudobnenie o&nbsp;Cr na hraniciach z\u0155n a&nbsp;jeho n\u00e1sledn\u00e9 vyl\u00fa\u010denie v&nbsp;podobe karbidov chr\u00f3mu (M23C6). Prevenciou vzniku m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 zn\u00ed\u017eenie obsahu C pod 0,03%, stabiliz\u00e1cia karbidotvorn\u00fdmi prvkami (TiC, NbC). Pri v\u00fdrobe zv\u00e1ran\u00edm je potrebn\u00e9 dodr\u017ea\u0165 stanoven\u00e9 teploty pred a&nbsp;po zv\u00e1ran\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"681\" height=\"451\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k3.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"135\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=135\" class=\"wp-image-135\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k3.jpg 681w, https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/k3-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 681px) 100vw, 681px\" \/><figcaption><em>a)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"267\" height=\"297\" src=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/why-bolt2.gif\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"136\" data-link=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?attachment_id=136\" class=\"wp-image-136\"\/><figcaption><em>b)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><em>Obr. 5 Medzikry\u0161t\u00e1lov\u00e1 kor\u00f3zia, a)napadnutie po hraniciach z\u0155n, b)pr\u00edklad poru\u0161enie v mieste zvaru<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Z\u00e1ver<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; \u010co doda\u0165 na z\u00e1ver? M\u00f4\u017eem len\nzd\u00f4razni\u0165 slov\u00e1 ktor\u00fdmi som za\u010d\u00ednal tento \u010dl\u00e1nok. D\u00f4veruj, ale preveruj! Aj ke\u010f\nste presved\u010den\u00ed o&nbsp;dobrej kond\u00edcii osaden\u00fdch isten\u00ed v&nbsp;nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00fdch\nlezeck\u00fdch oblastiach sk\u00faste si v\u0161\u00edma\u0165 aj mali\u010dkosti ako na pr\u00edklad ozna\u010denie\nmateri\u00e1lu v\u00fdrobcom \u010di normou, spr\u00e1vne zalepenie fixn\u00fdch isten\u00ed, ich pevnos\u0165,\naspo\u0148 laick\u00fdm poklepan\u00edm \u010di vzprie\u010den\u00edm, vytekaj\u00facu hrdzu spoza isten\u00ed,\npredret\u00e9 zla\u0148ovacie body a&nbsp;podobne. Vo v\u0161eobecnosti by sme sa st\u00e1le mali\nriadi\u0165 zdrav\u00fdm rozumom a&nbsp;tak aby sme zbyto\u010dne neohrozovali na\u0161u bezpe\u010dnos\u0165\na&nbsp;bezpe\u010dnos\u0165 na\u0161ich bl\u00edzkych. Ak si nie ste ist\u00ed kvalitou alebo kond\u00edciou\nfixn\u00fdch isten\u00ed je vhodn\u00e9 toto ozn\u00e1mi\u0165 spr\u00e1vcovi skalnej oblasti, alebo ak je to\nu&nbsp;n\u00e1s na Slovensku tak priamo na James.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Predslov V pr\u00edslov\u00ed \u201eD\u00f4veruj, ale preveruj\u201c je ve\u013ek\u00fd kus pravdy a&nbsp;mali by sme sa n\u00edm riadi\u0165 v\u0161etci a&nbsp;pri ka\u017edej pr\u00edle\u017eitosti. Plat\u00ed to aj pri pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00ed fixn\u00fdch isten\u00ed v&nbsp;lezeck\u00fdch oblastiach. V\u0161\u00edmam si predov\u0161etk\u00fdm pri za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00facich lezcoch \u010di u\u017e v&nbsp;skalk\u00e1rskych oblastiach alebo &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/?p=124\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":137,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"kt_blocks_editor_width":"","_price":"","_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_header":"","_tribe_default_ticket_provider":"","_tribe_ticket_capacity":"0","_ticket_start_date":"","_ticket_end_date":"","_tribe_ticket_show_description":"","_tribe_ticket_show_not_going":false,"_tribe_ticket_use_global_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_global_stock_level":"","_global_stock_mode":"","_global_stock_cap":"","_tribe_rsvp_for_event":"","_tribe_ticket_going_count":"","_tribe_ticket_not_going_count":"","_tribe_tickets_list":[],"_tribe_ticket_has_attendee_info_fields":false,"_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/124"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=124"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/124\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":139,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/124\/revisions\/139"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/137"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=124"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=124"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jaskobus.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=124"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}